Beyond the Leash

Dogs Rule in 2011!

2011-01-03T11:15:00.000-08:00

A new year is upon us! I am very excited about getting involved in some new K9 activities as well as moving forward with existing nosework classes. New Nosework Classes will be offered by Beyond The Leash in Boxford, Ma. On January 9^th. There will also be a FREE Nosework Demo at All Dogs Gym in Manchester, New Hampshire on January 19^th at 7pm. A week after that, new Nosework classes will begin at All Dogs Gym as well. Call for info: 818-974-9354

I have just recently started taking Flyball classes at Gemini Dogs with my three year old Malinois Cane. He is a natural athlete and as long as I don’t rush the details of the foundation work, he will do great and have a lot of fun doing it. I have high hopes for my dog Cane this year. Not only am I getting into the Flyball stuff, but I am continuing with his French Ring Sport training. I would like to enter him in a trial in Montreal, Canada in May. He will most likely compete at Ring 2 for the third time. He has already obtained the level of Ring 2 but he won’t be ready for Ring 3 by May. I am also continuing his Bed Bug detection work. Hopefully these activities along with walks in the woods will keep my dog busy enough to stay out of trouble. lol!

There will also be a brand new class that I am developing for 2011. This will be another “drive-based” exciting activity for dogs that all dogs will enjoy. More details will follow soon.

Let’s enjoy our dogs in 2011!

French Ring Trial Coming!

2010-07-02T04:40:00.001-07:00

French Ring Trial Announcement!

The Patriot Ring Club is hosting its first French Ring Trial on August 7and 8, 2010. The trial will be held in North Eastern Massachusetts. The field location is not finalized at this time. A French Judge is confirmed and Decoys are confirmed. Entry fees will be $50. We are presently welcoming volunteers to help with all aspects of the trial. If you have never seen a French Ring Trial it consists of obedience, agility and protection-based exercises. All dogs compete off leash and without collars. It is a challenging and exciting European dog sport. Spectators are welcome and encouraged to attend! If you live in North Eastern Massachusetts, Southern New Hampshire, Southern Maine or Southern Vermont, this will be a great opportunity to see what this activity is all about and meet French Ring Sport enthusiasts in your area. Save the dates! For more info call: 866.957.3647 or visit www.FrenchRingSport.com

New Nosework Article

2010-03-29T08:41:00.001-07:00

Nosework’ classes brings dogs into their own

Boxford dog trainer has more than 100 clients hooked on ‘Nosework’

Nationally-recognized dog trainer Scott Williams has recently begun introducing the activity of Nosework to dog trainers and local pet owners in the Northeast. His company, Beyond the Leash, is currently one of a handful of training businesses in the country certified to teach the sport that is rising in popularity.

While your dog doesn’t like checking facebook on your laptop and you are not too keen on sticking your nose into a pile of wet leaves, Nosework represents an activity that you and your dog can genuinely enjoy together.

Nosework’s search-dog techniques introduces structured activities to your dog that allows him or her to grow on its own; to grow more into focus, grow closer to their strongest sense, and grow closer to you.

And by giving dogs the freedom to unlock the powerful potential in their sense of smell, Nosework classes can uncover the sometimes unnoticed intelligence and autonomy in canines.

Scott Williams, of Boxford, has firmly placed himself as an east coast pioneer of the activity. Starting with classes in West Boxford, William’s Nosework training has now spread throughout New England as his students, some of whom are dog trainers, are now beginning to teach the classes in their own respective regions. Williams, however, is one of only a dozen trainers in the country with a certification to teach Nosework through the National Association of Canine Scent Work , the official governing agent for the sport.

While it has been well under a year since he moved from the west coast, Williams has engaged over 100 dogs and dog owners in the activity that can bring a domesticated canine back to its primal instincts.

The class begins by first incentivizing your dog to search and hunt using food hidden in one of several cardboard boxes. But in subsequent lessons, these canine students will track a birch scented q-tip under the wheel carriage of a pick up truck.

In addition to your dog’s short term enjoyment, the classes also have the real potential to see long term mood enrichment in an otherwise bored or stubborn canine.

Watertown resident Viviana Cordano began working with Williams in July and said that her two-year old Labrador Betty, who she found in an animal rescueshelter, has become more tranquil since first beginning Nosework classes.

“She’s a rescue dog that had been returned to the shelter three times so I knew she was a little bit of a trouble maker. But she didn’t know her boundaries; no one had ever taught her anything,” said Cordano. “Not only did she need to learn but I wanted to get her mind working, her nose working…mentally tire her out.”

Cordano goes onto explain what she noticed about Betty after going through the courses with Williams.

“I found this sport and she’s doing really, really good. We enjoy it very much. Our relationship has grown tremendously and she seems calmer too,” said Cordano.

Dog trainers are also drawn to the sport that strengthens a dog’s ability to identify certain smells through some of the same methods taught to law enforcement canines.

While some trainers find that Nosework is able to increase their pet’s repertoire of abilities, others find it is simply an outlet for their dog — and for themselves.

Dog trainer Mac McCluskey travels down from Lebanon, Maine to attend the Nosework classes in Boxford. During a recent class, McCluskey took his 3-year-old Belgian Malinois Naiya through an advanced Nosework course. The course had the canine looking among random boxes, around the perimeter of a building, and in the various nooks and crevasses around the outside of a car using the search command “find it.”

“I do other dog sports with the rest of my dogs and I needed to find something for her. She seems to be pretty much a natural for it,” said McCluskey. “So it’s good for her and it’s a great outlet for her.”

McCluskey goes on to explain how his dog, and others,can enjoy the sport so much.

“Dogs are just like giant noses on four legs…dogs smell things the way we see things. So in a structured environment like this it really draws on what they do best. And that’s use their nose.”

To learn more about Nosework and enroll in Williams’s most popular class, “Intro to Nosework,” visit Beyon dtheleash.net or contact Williams at 866-957-3647. Williams also offers obedience classes as well as his nationally recognized “Doggy Boot Camp.”

New Fun Nosework Video!

2009-10-25T14:24:00.000-07:00

Here's a short video of the "Intro to Odor" Class. We are having a great time in Boxford.

So far there are twenty-five Nosework students enjoying the experience with their dogs.

We are working towards having trials and kicking the butts of all visiting nosework competitors

from the left coast.

2009-10-14T07:24:00.000-07:00

Beyond The Leash has been invited to give a K9 Nosework Seminar at MasterPeace Dog Training in Franklin, MA. on Sunday December 6th, 2009 from 9am to 4pm.

The title of the seminar is "Introduction to Canine Nosework". There have been 12 to 15 slots made available. I have been told that they have a spacious 8000 square foot training room to hold the seminar in. A description of the event is as follows:

Dogs have an amazing sense of smell and a natural desire to hunt. The sport of K9 Nose Work and Fun Nose Work classes are designed to develop your dog’s natural scenting abilities by using their desire to hunt and their love of toys, food and exercise. It’s a great way for your dog to have fun, build confidence, and burn lots of mental and physical energy. Find out just how good your dog's nose really is!

Scott's approach to teach dogs to do scent work is based on some of the foundation techniques used in K-9 detection. This unique curriculum promotes a positive, fun and motivationally-based methodology.

To sign up for this exciting event please contact MasterPeace Dog Training at 508-553-9300 or visit them online at masterpeacedog.com

Boxford Nosework in the news.

2009-10-13T06:58:00.000-07:00

Beyond The Leash dog training in Boxford, MA. recently was featured in the TRI-TOWN TRANSCRIPT. The article focuses on the new dog sport called K9 Nosework orFun Nosework. A link is provided within the text above. But if that fails I have copied and pasted the article below.
BOXFORD - In a world where dogs are used to wearing plaid sweaters and eating treats that look like miniature T-bone steaks, one Boxford resident is offering to guide your canines back to their primal instincts.Using some of the same methods that teach dogs to search for bombs and drugs, Washington Street resident Scott Williams has begun teaching “nose work” classes at Lincoln Hall. The lessons, he said, have the potential to turn a pampered Pomeranian into a hunter.“You’re really trying to channel the dog’s natural instincts and drives,” said Williams, who moved to Boxford in June. The classes are recreational activity for both the dog and the owner, Williams said.While it has been gaining momentum on the West Coast, canine nose work isn’t well known in these parts. Williams, a certified nose work instructor, is running one of only a dozen or so classes in the country, and is the only certified individual teaching on the East Coast.Using the downstairs in Lincoln Hall, the former Los Angeles resident begins by setting up small cardboard boxes in a line down the length of the room. Putting a dog treat or food in one box, he has the owner walk his or her dog down the line until it finds the right box.“We teach them to search and hunt using food,” Williams said.Nose work is contradictory to most types of training in the sense that you are trying to push the dog to follow itself and not the owner. He said owners have to be careful about giving subconscious visual cues to their pets, such as slowing down around the box with the food in it.“Ultimately, we want the dog to follow its nose,” Williams said.The class work ranges from finding a piece of food in a line of boxes to eventually letting the dog off the leash on a vehicle search to find a birch-scented Q-tip.Since starting Boxford classes in late August, Williams has seen enough interest in the lessons that he will also be offering them at the Community House in Hamilton.In the four months since moving to the area, he has received requests by a number of dog trainers to give tutorials on nose work teaching. Last week, the dog trainer was invited to the state police academy in Vermont to take part in a detection-training workshop.The Massachusetts Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals in Boston has also shown an interest in training, he said. Williams said since nose work focuses on improving a dog’s motivation and autonomy, it’s ideal for helping abused dogs that are timid and afraid.The next set of classes in Boxford begins on Sunday Oct. 18 at Lincoln Hall. Williams is offering advanced classes, which begin at 1 p.m. and the introductory course that begins at 2:30 p.m. and 4 p.m. Classes in Hamilton begin on Monday, Oct. 19 at 7 p.m. at the Community House.The course includes six classes.

Cane is out...Malinois really do sleep. I have proof!.

2009-10-04T19:13:00.000-07:00

As the saying goes "A picture is worth a thousand words..." I'm going to bed. Good Night!

Intro to K9 Nosework Graduates!

2009-10-04T18:26:00.000-07:00

Well, The very first session of "Intro to Nosework" has ended. We had two classes running back to back. The first class had six dogs and the second class had five. Out of eleven dogs, nine dogs graduated and are moving on to our "Intro to Odor" Class that starts on Oct. 18th. I am very pleased with the commitment of the handlers and I am always impressed with how quickly dogs learn when given the freedom and guidance to do so.

These first classes have really been a great experience for me as an instructor. The New Englanders that I've met through these classes are the best. I don't consider myself a "people person" but when dogs are the common denominator, I have no problem chatting for hours on end about dog related stuff. That's why I started Beyond The Leash!

Thank you all again for your support. I love what I do and am so fortunate to be able make a living doing it. These are lean times for all of us these days and I will continue to work hard to make your experience in K9 Nosework well worth the time and money. THE FUN IS JUST BEGINNING!

"Cane" takes 1st Place in Competition!

2009-09-29T06:51:00.000-07:00

On Saturday, September 26th 2009, I put my dog Cane into my RV and drove up to Wells, Maine for the first Mondio Ring Trial that "Maine-ly Ring Club" has hosted in eight years. They have an excellent field and a nice group of low key dog enthusiasts that love both the sport and their dogs. This group has also managed to avoid the politics that seem to go hand in hand with these types of activities. To briefly summarize the sport I would say it is a blend of off-leash obedience, agility (jumps) and protection-based biting exercises all mixed together with a theme. The purpose of the "theme" is to create new and unusual scenarios limited only by the imagination of the hosting club and the judge. The end result is a physical and mental challenge of each dog's character and training. Mondio Ring is quite unique. Saturday's theme was "Vacation in Maine". There were lobster pots and buoys on the field. One of the challenges was the dogs' ability (ie self control) to ignore plastic lobsters being tossed around them while remaining in the down position with their handler out of sight. The retrieve object was a stuffed toy that resembled a whale. A life-sized styrofoam deer stood in the field along with a fairly tall lighthouse. It was really well done without being totally over the top.

I arrived at the trial location at 9am, just in time for the rounding up of competitors and the review of the days activities. Numbers were drawn from a hat to decide the order that the dogs would be competing in. In my catagory "Mondio Ring 1" there were seven competitors. I drew number 4. Anyone that has competed with animals knows that your're not going to "fix" anything right before a trial so what you have is what you're going to get. Cane's obedience is good. His retrieve is not perfect but solid and his bite work is also not perfect but solid. This is the result of beginning training at seven weeks old and working with him almost everyday from the day I got him until his first birthday. After that I gave him almost a full year off just to be a dog.

The trial began around 9:30am. The first three competitors did not pass. Before I entered the field I was instructed to remove my dogs leash and collar and hand it to the "Deputy Judge". This is the person that basically walks you from one exercise to another. They remind you where to stand and usually it's a big help to have a knowledgeable Deputy Judge at a trial. I handed off my gear and heeled my dog to the predetermined spot before the Judge, placed him in a down stay and introduced myself. While I was doing this another one of the Judges helpers was tossing a big piece of raw Chicken in front of my dog. Food refusal was the first exercise. Cane ignored the tossed food and was good about all of the exercises. The only one that he blew completely was the "Send Away". This exercise is when you tell your dog to "Go Out" and the dog takes off straight into the field before you. I had started that with him but never finished it and had he done it I would have been extremely surprised. It was a twelve point exercise so it's a big one to loose.

In the end my dog scored 183.5 out of 200 possible points. He lost a point here and there and the 12 big ones for no send away. On that day Cane was the best of seven dogs. It's really nice to win a trial. Even if it's a small local trial. It confirms to me that my training is on the right track. It tells me about my dogs character and it tells me a lot about myself when I do these things. I must keep my nerves in check and be a good sport win or loose. Friendly competition in any venue should only bring out the best in us.

Canine Detection with Randy Hare

2009-09-24T11:53:00.000-07:00

I recently had the honor of being one of the only civilians invited to participate in an intensive Canine Detection Training course sponsored by the Vermont Police Academy. The instructor was Randy Hare of Alpha K9. In the world of Law Enforcement Randy is recognized as a leader in the business of Canine Detection. His ground breaking techniques have not only advanced the quality of the training but the speed that dogs are capable of learning. It is not often that one can do things faster AND enhance the quality of the end result. More importantly, Randy is able to teach others how to implement his techniques quickly and effectively.

It does however take a high-drive dog to utilize Randy's techniques. It takes a dog with high "fight-drive". I guess it's easiest to describe this as the strong desire to play tug with you. There are many dogs that are "high-drive" but the drive may be stronger to retrieve than fight or play tug. It takes a very specific dog to take advantage of this methodology. But when starting with the right dog for the job, progress moves at lightning speed.

Fortunately for me, my dog Cane falls into the category of having (at least moderate) fight-drive. I am enjoying K9 Nosework with Cane and this course really helped to give me a deeper understanding of the canine mind. Good training seams to always be simple-not easy. Channeling a dogs natural drive into a productive task is both rewarding for the dog and the handler. It takes the genius of simplicity and the patience of a Saint to stand back and let the dogs learn on their own. It goes against 100 years of traditional dog training and catapults both man and dog into the New Age.

Week 4 of Intro to Nosework

2009-09-20T19:09:00.000-07:00

We completed week 4 today. First we started off with an expanded box drill with twice as many boxes as usual, blind hide and timed each participant. All students did excellent. Times ranged from 4 seconds to 1 minute forty seconds. It was great to see how well the handlers read their dogs.

After that quick warm up, the boxes were moved to the perimeter of the room to start working on interior room entries. That first corner was hard for all of the dogs! It's amazing how all living things want to cut corners! But of course they all got it after a few searches and the handlers learned to be more patient before giving that "Search" command. It was very clear to all that participated that giving the command just a second off from when the dog was actually in work mode lead to less than optimum results.

I will try to be more diligent about posting pics and keeping this blog updated as to our progress. Feel free to contact me with any questions regarding nosework or other dog related questions. If I don't have the answer, chances are pretty good that I know someone that does!

Scott 866-957-3647

2009-09-17T16:36:00.000-07:00

Meet Dorothy & Raven

Dorothy called Beyond The Leash last month because she was having a little trouble with Raven. Raven is a wonderful one hundred and fifty pound, two year old Newfoundland that still acts like a six month old puppy.

Dorothy needed a trainer to come to her home for training sessions. Raven is a very strong and enthusiastic dog that had already knocked Dorothy down with her jumping and playfulness. Keep in mind that although these two are a bit of a mismatch, this is Dorothy's fourth Newfoundland. This is her favorite breed and I fully understand a person's devotion to one breed or another. The problem was that if Raven decided to run down the street or even pull on the leash for that matter, Dorothy does not have the physical strength to hold her back. Raven had been through puppy classes and actually was involved in a board & train program at one time, so most of the basics were in place. We just needed more reliability and less reactivity to the environment. I knew I could get Raven to that point and then Dorothy could safely manage her dog. After that, the two of them could really start enjoying life more by getting out into the world together.

We started off with just creating a simple routine of putting a leash on Raven and making her sit at the door before going out and sitting outside the door after passing through. This level of control was needed to keep Raven focused on Dorothy and to break the old habit of just charging out into the yard and going into crazy play mode (I did the same stuff with my young dog Cane). Next we worked on heeling around the backyard. From there we worked on sitting at the gate that goes to the street and sitting outside the gate. At this point after about four weeks of training Dorothy is able to put the leash on Raven and take her out for a walk in the neighborhood. Our next hurdle is teaching Raven to control herself before getting in the car. She LOVES going in the car for a ride through Peabody, MA so this is very stimulating for her. We are making progress in leaps and bounds. Every time I arrive for a training session I see Dorothy's confidence and competence getting better.

It really makes me feel good to help someone like Dorothy. She had already spent considerable time and money with other trainers in the area. It was simply a case of finding the right training approach for this team. Dorothy's strong commitment to seeing this training through has made working with her a real pleasure. I look forward to video taping the two of them in the future and posting that video to this blog.

Stay Tuned and Enjoy Happy & Safe Training!

Scott Williams

Beyond The Leash

2009-09-17T05:12:00.000-07:00

K9 Nosework Classes in Boxford Massachusetts are big success!

We had twelve new handlers start K9 Nosework Classes with their dogs this session. We are approaching week four and have seen huge progress in a very short time. We will be starting new Intro to nosework classes at a new location in South Hamilton Massachusetts as well as at our existing location in Boxford, Massachusetts. The South Hamilton classes will be held at "The Community House" on Monday nights starting Oct.19th at 7pm. The next session of classes in Boxford will start Sunday Oct.18th at 1pm. Boxford classes will be held at "Lincoln Hall" in Boxford, Massachusetts. For more info on this exciting and addictive new dog sport, please visit: http//www.K9-Nosework.com

Happy & Safe Training!

Scott Williams CNWI

http://www.BeyondTheLeash.net

2009-06-29T16:27:00.000-07:00

This was my first dog. I was at my parents recently and went through some old albums. Her name was Snowball. She was a Samoyed. She liked to kill Skunks, chase cars, guard her food bowl and roam the neighborhood. She was a pretty typical dog. Although more independent than many dogs I've had since, she preferred to sleep in the snow rather than by the fire. Great dog though. We all loved her.

Fun Nose Work Trial

2009-06-13T18:05:00.000-07:00

As many of you already know, Beyond The Leash Dog Training hosted a fun nose work trial at our Southern California dog training location. We had thirty competitors and many spectators at this event. It took place on June 7th at 4469 Chevy Chase Drive, La Canada California 91011. This event is a result of many dog owners getting involved in fun nose work classes teaching their dogs to hunt for specific recreational odors. The trial was to further enjoy the training and really see how far the dogs have come in a relatively short time.
The Fun Nose Work classes will be starting in Boxford Massachusetts in July of 2009. For more information about this exciting activity to enjoy with your dog AND see some trial pics, please click on the link below:
http://www.ncswa.net/trialgallery/june72009.html

North Shore of Massachusetts dog training

2009-06-13T06:40:00.000-07:00

Dog training on the North shore of Massachusetts will begin in July of 2009. We will be holding group dog training classes, private dog training classes and Doggy Boot Camp in Boxford Massachusetts. We will also be offering Fun Nose Work classes! These classes help your dog rediscover their natural ability to hunt and find great rewards! This class helps shy dogs become more confidant and helps high energy dogs calm down (at least a little).
Dogs from surrounding communities are all welcome! We are just 30 minutes from Boston, Cape Ann and New Hampshire. Check back for updates and class start dates.

Boxford Massachusetts dog training

2009-06-10T13:44:00.000-07:00

I am very excited to start training dogs in Boxford Massachusetts! It is a wonderful location and we will begin dog training at a great time of year. For me there is no better place than New England in the summer. For more information please visit
Http://www.BoxfordDogTraining.com we can also be found at
Http://www.BeyondTheLeash.net
I will be driving across the country with four dogs, two boys and a turtle. I'll post updates a while I'm making my trek across the Nation.
Thanks!
Scott
Beyond The Leash
866-957-3647

New Training Location

2009-05-21T06:21:00.000-07:00

Beyond The Leash Dog Training will be opening a second location in Boxford Massachusetts. We will offer dog training in Boxford Massachusetts starting July 2009. We look forward to this exciting new venture! For more info call 866-957-3647

Dog Boarding, Los Angeles

2008-07-21T17:09:00.001-07:00

WE offer short term boarding for our existing clientle. If you would like us to keep your dog for a long weekend or more, please give us a call!

Final Cut Project

2008-07-21T08:03:00.001-07:00

My son has been editing my occasional dog training videos. This video is his latest project that he did for a friend. I think he's really getting the hang of it!

Managing your pups behavior indoors

2008-05-26T10:30:00.000-07:00

Tether Training

The purpose of tethering is to confine your new dog an area near you where he/she will be safe and secure without causing problems in your home. The tether is a short plastic coated wire cable with a snap on one end and a loop on the other. It should be approximately 2 to 3 feet long. The short length of the tether is essential to prevent the dog from becoming tangled. The snap enables you to quickly attach the tether around any heavy furniture leg or through an eyebolt. It is plastic coated to prevent damage to the furniture. It can also be used in the car around seat belts. The cable is wire to prevent the dog from chewing through it. We suggest using several tether locations, one in the kitchen, in the living room, near the bed, and in the car.

When you bring your new dog or puppy home and have time to spend with him/her, the dog must be tethered near you or on a leash with you at all times. If you cannot supervise your dog, he/she should be in the crate or outside. The tether is used for training, not as a crutch.

The tether enables your dog to be in the house at all times. Never use the tether outside and do not use the tether if your dog is alone in the home. You don't need to be in the room but you must be at home. This will actually increase your dog's freedom. The dog will be able to go more places with you if you can place the dog knowing he/she will fell secure and not create a problem.

We recommend continued use of the tether and crate until the dog fully understands the new environment, with a gradual reduction thereafter.

Use of the tether allows for the following:

Bonding - Allowing the new dog to be with or near you is essential to creating a loving and secure relationship between you and your dog. If there is no place available to tether the dog, keep the dog with you at all times by holding the leash or securing it to your belt loop.

Security - Tethering gives the dog the security of knowing where he/she belongs and how to act, not only in your home but when you take the dog to a new environment.

Housebreaking - Dogs do not like to relieve themselves in their immediate area. Make sure you take your dog out on a routine basis and praise appropriate elimination. If elimination does not occur, return the dog to the crate for 15 to 30 minutes and then take out again.

Calming - Tethering calms the dog inside the home or car. The dog should be on the tether for a minimum of 30 minutes and can stay tethered for longer.

Destructive Chewing - Close tethering prevents the dog from destroying your possessions. Provide stationary toys such as Nyla-bones or Flossys. Do not use balls that might roll away and cause the dog to bark.

Socialization - By using the tether you are allowing your dog to be near you but not to be the center of attention 24 hours a day.

A dog who can be tethered without causing problems, possesses a skill that will be handy in many situations over his/her lifetime. Remember the dog's greatest joy in life is to be near you and to please you. ASPCA

The value of teaching "Place" to dogs & puppies

2008-01-31T19:21:00.000-08:00

Getting a new puppy or adopting an older dog is a wonderful thing and can be a very rewarding experience. However, being a dog trainer with young kids in the house, I have found that the excitement of a puppy tends to wear thin after only a few short weeks. Then the duties of raising a puppy or caring for an older dog can become a chore. Compound these newfound responsibilities with destructive behavior and potty training problems and there’s big trouble in Paradise. People will surrender their fresh sod, lawn lighting, Bar-B-Q covers, hoses, Roses and pool toys to a crazy lovable Lab. But when the couch has already been replaced, the chair legs are nawed down to stumps and every room smells like urine they start looking for a new home for their four-legged friend. I have found that the most tolerant of people typically will give up a puppy after about a year of dealing with these problems. The easiest way to avoid these problems is with proper management and obedience training. For me, “proper management” means know where your pup/dog is at all times. ensure that they are safe and unable to get into trouble at all times. I try to achieve this by using a crate or a puppy pen in the house and teaching the “Place” command early on. I would also add that the outdoor area where your dog can play or lie around must be secure to keep him from running into the street and MUST provide shelter from the elements and fresh water. The business of managing your dog is a lifetime commitment. Dogs don’t move out when they grow up but if you teach them well, you will be glad that they don’t. The management of your dog will loosen up as he begins to mature and handle more responsibility. First he will have limited freedom in one small area and when he does well there the area will eventually increase to the entire house if that is your desire. Remember that dogs are domesticated animals and have been bred to live with us not against us. I hope this short video gives you an idea as to what I mean by “Place”. It is a great way for dogs to be a part of the family and learn to have some self control. Oh, if you have a mouthy puppy give’em something like a peanut butter filled Kong toy to chew on while they hang out on their bed. If you need some help just give me a call at: 866-957-DOGS (3647) you can also get a lot of free info on my site. Visit us at: http://WWW.BEYONDTHELEASH.COM Thanks for taking the time time to visit my blog.

Teaching our new puppy to go to the bed

2008-01-30T20:37:00.000-08:00

If I Did Not Have Animals

2008-01-24T09:20:00.000-08:00

If I Didn't Have Animals . . . .

‑ author unknown ‑

© I could walk around the yard barefoot in safety.
© My house could be carpeted instead of tiled and laminated.
© All flat surfaces, clothing, furniture, and cars would be free of hair.
© When the doorbell rings, it wouldn't sound like a kennel.
© When the doorbell rings, I could get to the door without wading through fuzzy bodies who beat me there.
© I could sit on the couch and my bed the way I wanted, without taking into consideration how much space several fur bodies would need to get comfortable.
© I would not have strange presents under my Christmas tree ‑‑ dog bones, stuffed animals, toys, treats nor would I have to explain to people why I wrap them.
© I would have money and no guilt about going on a real vacation.
© I would not be on a first‑name basis with 6 veterinarians, as I put their yet unborn grandkids thru college.
© The most used words in my vocabulary would not be: out, sit, down, come, no, stay, and leave him/her/it ALONE.
© My house would not be cordoned off into zones with baby gates or barriers.
© My house would not look like a day care center ‑ toys everywhere.
© My pockets would not contain things like poop bags, treats and an extra leash.
© I would no longer have to Spell the words B‑A‑L‑L‑, F‑R‑I‑S‑B‑E‑ E, W‑A‑L‑K, or T‑R‑E‑A‑T.
© I would not have as many leaves INSIDE my house as outside.
© I would not look strangely at people who think having ONE dog/cat ties them down too much.
© I'd look forward to spring and the melting of snow instead of dreading mud season.
© I would not have to answer the question "Why do you have so many dogs/animals?" from people who will never have the joy in their lives of knowing they are loved unconditionally by someone as close to an angel as they will ever get.

How empty my life would be.

A day at dog beach

2008-01-21T06:51:00.000-08:00

2008-01-21T06:47:00.001-08:00

Training Your Dog To Heel

2008-01-20T06:26:00.000-08:00

Training Your Dog To Heel
Article Written by Anthony Stai

1
points
One of the first commands your dog learns ought to be the 'HEEL' command. This command will be useful in insuring the security of your dog while out in public and will make you look like the proprietor of a well-mannered and lovable dog. To add to the magnificence of all this, the command itself is rather easy and almost any dog can be taught the meaning of the command with 30 minutes or so of effort.
So what is the function of the 'heel' command? This one word command tells your dog that the animal is to saunter in a straight line at your side, not earlier than or following you. This provides security for your dog in public places as well as for yourself. The command keeps your dog at your side rather than running throughout the picnic blankets of recreational area goers and, if you possess a larger more menacing breed, makes you appear a less friendly target to would-be criminal elements.
Wow, that sounds great' How do I educate my dog? Well, it isn't as tricky as you might believe. There are two all-purpose methods of training. One uses merely positive reinforcement and the other uses a combination of both positive and negative strategy. First we will discuss the positive reinforcement method.
In this technique, you have to first put your dog on a short leash and acquire quite a few of the dogs preferred foodstuff treats, little pieces of dried out kibble from the animals dog food is normally appropriate. Decide which side you have a preference your dog to walk on and train from this side in the subsequent manner. With the dog by your side, in front of in the same direction, put a treat in your hand subsequently to your hip. In a hard, yet kind voice, say 'heel' and walk onward. When the dog responds by stepping with you, commend them and reward them with the treat. Remember to be consistent and not to reward prior to the feat is carried out, yet at all times reward for a good performance. With a lot of patience, this technique will work fine for most dogs and results in a close bonding of the dog to the owner. However, some dogs are just naturally harder to train, just like some people. If you are blessed with one of these independent and physically powerful willed pets then you might have to avail yourself of a different technique of training, which was mentioned previous in this discussion.
To use the second training technique, you have to start with a somewhat longer leash of approximately seven to ten feet. Allow your dog a little moments to travel around the boundaries of the leash and understand how it works. Then call the animal to your side and position manually as before with the animal next to you, facing the same direction. In a hard voice, say 'heel' and walk onward. At this time, the dog will most likely not walk with you. It will, in its place, begin to travel around most probable running in a different direction than wherever you are leading. To fix this behavior, revolve in the opposite direction of the pets' direction of travel and take a few steps onward, fairly briskly, as you hoist the leash to shoulder height and let it play out after you. The outcome of this act will be seen as the animal rapidly reaches the finish of the leash and their onward impetus teaches them the era aged physics lesson that 'Every deed has an equivalent and opposite reaction.' The animal will fairly rapidly learn that to refuse to comply the heel command results in a discomforting feeling from the abrupt stop at the end of the leash and, after a short while, will be taught to abide by the command. When the dog reaches the condition of obedience, be certain to reward them with lots of positive reinforcements, such as play time and treats, along with rich spoken praise.
Whichever of these methods you choose in the training of your dog, the 'heel' command is certain to go a long way in making you a greatly more contented dog owner who will be proud to demonstrate your dog anyplace. Remember to train with love, patience and consistency and your dog will return you with devotion and many, many years of companionship.
About the Author:
Anthony Stai is a proud contributing author and writes articles on several pet related topics including dog training. You can see more of Anthony's articles on his Dog Training informational web site located at http://www.petinformation4you.com

You Dog Training Attitude is Everything

2008-01-19T21:15:00.000-08:00

You Dog Training Attitude is Everything
Article Written by Anthony Stai

1
points
There is nothing more critical to the victory of dog training than the owner's attitude. The mindset of the trainer is more significant than the equipment purchased, the correct scheme used, or the breed of dog involved. Nothing can obliterate the chances of effective training more rapidly than an owner with the wrong attitude on the training process.
Dogs naturally long for and enjoy human camaraderie. When their human companions come up to them in the right way, they are particularly receptive to learning and develop a strong need to act in a manner that will please their master. This is why a proper attitude is very important with respect to training dogs. When the owner is pleasant, the dog will be pleasant. When the owner is thrilled about lessons, the dog will most likely be thrilled about learning. Dogs can frequently reflect the attitudes and dispositions of their owners, a truth that must be kept in mind while undertaking dog training.
Additionally, the proper view on dog training can make the experience infinitely more pleasing for the owner. A pleasing training experience will naturally create improved instruction on the part of the trainer. Again, proper attitude will pay training dividends.
So, what is the right attitude to bring to dog training? Owners should strive to keep an encouraging viewpoint at all times and should strive for a disposition that makes the procedure fun for both the dog and the trainer. Failure to approach training with such an attitude risks tragedy. The correct attitude and perspective really is the prerequisite to training success.
The owner should be positive. A positive viewpoint, of course, works in combination with any quality training method. Effective training requires constructive reinforcement, and that kind of praise and love is best administered by someone who in general presents a positive attitude. Training will be packed with compliments, encouragement and praise. Those rewards, which are the key module to training, are more possible to be correctly and successfully administered by a trainer with a optimistic disposition.
Trainers should recognize that they can manage to be both firm and welcoming at the same time. It is not required to affect an angry or severe tone during the training procedure. These caricatures of displeasure do not present any more training value than use of a straightforward solemn tenor. A inferior tenor with a stern 'bite' is more than sufficient. When praising and instructing, the owner must bear in mind to use a very welcoming and pleased voice. The dog will thrive knowing his owner enjoys their interaction so much and will be very motivated to be taught as a result.
Most significantly the trainer must for all time keep in mind that dog training is supposed to be fun. It should be fun for the trainer and just as fun for the pet. The idea is to make the training procedure exhilarating and pleasing for the pet as is possible. By making the process a pleasure, the dog is specially motivated to perform.
Too frequently training becomes nothing more than a obligatory chore. The owner does not enjoy the opportunity to spend time with his or her dog. The dog understands this and does not get energized at the prospect, either. In worse cases, training becomes an unwelcome chore. The negative disposition and attitude of the owner is sensed undoubtedly by the dog and mirrored. Training advancement stalls, irritation sets in, and the entire procedure becomes more crippled.
The cliche that 'attitude is everything' actually does depict dog training. A unconstructive or harsh attitude will squash hopes of accomplishment. A constructive viewpoint coupled with sociability and a sense of fun will make training a treat.
A fun disposition also makes training more pleasant for the dog owner. The trainer's optimistic attitude creates a more constructive disposition for the pet, which in turn improves the trainer's attitude even more. By starting the training procedure with a rock-hard optimistic attitude, the owner gets the ball rolling, so to speak. The end result can be a training experience that is enjoyed by both pet and owner, which is in no doubt to produce astounding results. By approaching training with a optimistic disposition, a dog owner can create astonishing and positive outcomes.
About the Author:
Anthony Stai is a proud contributing author and writes articles on several pet related topics including dog training. You can see more of Anthony's articles on his Dog Training informational web site located at http://www.petinformation4you.com
Article Source: Free Articles SA

Why Effective Dog Training is Necessary

2008-01-19T21:11:00.000-08:00

Why Effective Dog Training is Necessary
Article Written by Anthony Stai

1
points
Effective dog training is necessary for both a pet's safety and the quality of life for both dog and master.
After struggling with training a dog, you may feel tempted to give up. Giving up on training an outside dog, for example, can be a genuine attraction. You may think you'll still manage to have realistically pleasurable interactions with no going through the hassles and challenges of actual training. Perhaps you think the dog will study on his or her own, over time, how to behave. Training is not easy and can appear like such an effort that giving up may feel sensible.
It is not. Effective dog training is not a mere alternative. When one considers its endless payback, it becomes nothing short of mandatory. Allowing a dog to exist untrained can pose major risks. The costs linked with these risks are so harsh that rational decision making requires one to opt for training, despite the costs in time and effort it may require.
Initially, training can be the distinction between life and death for a dog. An untrained dog, for example, cannot be recalled effectively if he might roam away. He may encounter any number of dangers in his wanderings' many of which could result in grave injury or death. In critical pressure situations, a well-trained dog can be controlled and protected. The untrained dog is left simply with his instincts and education learned in the course of the proverbial school of hard knocks. In a world inhabited by an infinite number of potential dangers, this is frequently not enough.
Training, then, is less of an alternative for a accountable pet owner than it is an duty. Any pet owner ought to believe training the animal a fundamental responsibility that cannot be overlooked. The dog's very life, after all, could dangle in the equilibrium. It is unthinkable that any accountable pet owner would look past that thought and still make a decision that training was simply not worth the attempt it requires.
Second, a dog's quality of life is enhanced considerably by training. He will understand how to gratify his human companions, giving him a sense of purpose and enabling him to access the social interactions dogs naturally have. He will be able to go through life as a buddy and companion, instead of being treated as a mere nuisance or disregarded. By learning to behave to his owner's approval, the dog is able to add to his own satisfaction. Leaving a dog untrained makes it hard for him to understand how to obtain the constructive human attention and reactions he craves and may curse him with a life full with unpleasant exchanges with people as he innocently misbehaves.
Third, the dog owner's quality of life is enhanced dramatically by dog training. This occurs on multiple levels. Initially, the owner and dog are able to develop a close connection, which brings with it numerous rewards. The owner is as well able to keep away from the frustrating experience of having to care for a pet that doesn't know how to care back or who is unfriendly and prone to errant behavior. Additionally, the owner is able to keep away from the liabilities created by an untrained dog. The owner can avoid the destruction, difficulty and even dangers posed by an untrained pet. Instead of being a constant source of annoyance and guilt, the well-trained dog becomes a source of enjoyment and pride.
It is simple, under some situations, to think that wide-ranging and effectual dog training is not worth the considerable attempt it may require. However, this perspective, if acted upon, will really make a situation necessitating more effort than training would have ever required. By committing to effectively training a dog, the owner makes an investment of time and effort that will pay out in a assortment of ways.
Settling for anything less is highly unacceptable and cannot be sufficiently discouraged.
Good training will protect a dog from danger and will enable him to live an enjoyable and satisfying life. It will as well make the owner's life more enjoyable and can result in a deeply rewarding relationship with the pet. Effective dog training is truly vital
About the Author:
Anthony Stai is a proud contributing author and writes articles on several pet related topics including dog training. You can see more of Anthony's articles on his Dog Training informational web site located at http://www.petinformation4you.com
Article Source: Free Articles SA

Dog Training - Leash/Collar Training

2008-01-19T15:48:00.000-08:00

Dog Training - Leash/Collar Training
Article Written by Anthony Stai

1
points
There are many different styles of dog training, and finding the one that works best for you is important for creating a dog that is a talented, loyal and faithful member of the family. All successful methods of dog training work to reinforce the relationship between dog and handler, and the foundation of any successful training program is getting the respect of the dog. Fortunately, dogs are wired by nature to seek out leaders, and to follow the direction of those leaders.
This article focuses on one of the most popular methods of dog training - the so called leash/collar style of training. Other articles will focus on the other popular style of training dogs, often called reward training or positive reinforcement.
Both leash/collar training and reward training have been around for a very long time, and they have proven their effectiveness over time. The type of training that works best will vary from dog to dog, and from breed to breed. It is important to remember that each breed of dog has its own unique qualities, reinforced by hundreds of years of selective breeding.
Of course personalities of individual dogs vary quite a bit, even within established breeds. You, as the owner of the dog, know better than anyone which style of dog training will work best, so it is important to work with the trainer you choose to achieve your goal of a willing, obedient and friendly dog.
Leash and collar training is the best way to accomplish many types of dog training, particularly in situations where the dog must have a high level of reliability. For instance, dogs that have an important job to do, such as rescue dogs, police dogs and guard dogs, generally benefit from leash and collar training.
In leash and collar training, varying degrees of force can be used, ranging from slight prompts with the lead to very harsh corrections. The amount of correction used should be appropriate to the situation, since using too much correction, or too little, will be ineffective.
In a collar and leash based dog training program, first the dog is taught a particular behavior, generally with the leash. After the dog has demonstrated that it understands the command, the leash is then used to correct the dog if it disobeys, or when it makes a mistake. The leash is the main form of controlling and communicating with the dog in leash and collar training.
When using leash and collar training, the dog must be trained to trust the handler and accept his or her directions without question. In order for the dog to be fully trained, the handler must demonstrate the ability to place the dog into a posture or position he or she does not want to take. This does not mean using force, but it does generally require some level of physical manipulation. This manipulation is most easily and safely done using the main tool of leash and collar training - the leash.
It is important for every would be dog trainer to understand that the leash is simply a tool. While the leash is an important tool in this form of training, it is important for the dog trainer to be able to eventually achieve the same results using whatever tools are at hand.
Even when the only tools at hand are the owner's body and skill, the dog should be willing to obey. Creating a leader/follower relationship between handler and dog is still very important, and it is important to use the leash as a tool and not a crutch. A properly trained dog should be willing to obey whether the leash is present or not.
About the Author:
Anthony Stai owns and operates the #4 (Google) site for As Seen On TV products and has loved animals all his life. Please visit his Pet Trainer page for unique pet training product that works with both dogs and cats.

Animal Husbandry and Other Unnatural Acts: A Career in Dog Training

2008-01-19T06:10:00.000-08:00

Animal Husbandry and Other Unnatural Acts: A Career in Dog Training
Article Written by Albert Medinas

4
points
Do you like dogs? Do they like you back?
Well, in that case, maybe YOU have what it takes to make it in the ruff and kibble world of canine coaching. Maybe. But before you start barking up this career tree, it might be beneficial to get a little information first. The exiting world of dog training covers several areas of expertise, so consider which dog track you want to take.
So, like, what do I need to know? Isn't it just "Sit, Heel, Stay"?
I am so glad you asked. Dog training encompasses much more than simple submission commands. Yes, a career in dog training can and does involve obedience training, but it can also delve much deeper. For instance, you could become an Animal Behaviorist, or a Behavioral Consultant. These professionals burrow into Rover's psyche, working to dig up the long buried bones of his past. Rather than flea the past, they use it to see what makes him tick (Ooh, that one even made ME groan).
You mean I have to be a dog shrink?
Many in the dog-training field, especially Behaviorists, study not only veterinary science, but also psychology. So, in a way, you kind of become a "dog shrink" as you so eloquently put it. But this training helps with more than just the dog. Don't forget, the dogs you will be training generally have owners, and some dog owners don't realize that they may be the cause of the behavioral issues exhibited by their puppy pals (think of the mom of that snotty, screaming kid in the checkout line at grocery store who thinks she's a great parent), and that they need to learn how to interact more effectively with their pets. It's up to a trained dog specialist to uncover and rectify this.
So how much schooling up am I gonna need before I begin my career in dog training?
Many experts in the field of dog training will tell you it takes three to five years of serious, intensive study and hands-on dog training and handling to even become a good novice trainer. Becoming an experienced Master Dog Trainer takes many years of working with the animals, gaining valuable field (or park) experience. You will most likely even pay your dues with a few nips here and there (bites, not nerve-settling sips of schnapps). It's all part of the price - and the leash you can do, if you are serious about a career in dog training.
So, are there like, dog trainer colleges?
There are indeed schools that offer courses in canine training. The program lengths and costs vary from school to school, depending upon the type of study you wish to pursue. There are even online and home study courses (I am familiar with one that charges $995 for a home study video package), but anyone who seriously wants to work with dogs should look for a school with actual animals that you can touch. Sniff around and dig up a school that fits your situation.
The Animal Behavioral College (ABC, get it?) charges about $3000 for its hands-on program to become a Certified Dog Trainer, which takes around six months to complete. And there are some accredited universities and colleges that proffer animal behavior programs. These are not necessarily dog-specific, but nevertheless will assist you in beginning your career in dog training. Cornell University in Ithaca, NY; Guelph University in Ontario, Canada; and Tufts University in Boston, MA are three such universities. Standard college tuition would apply at these schools, but they might throw you a bone and let you apply for financial aid. Beg...beg...good boy!
And then I can become employed as a dog trainer and watch the scratch (money, not the flesh wound) roll in?
No.
Why not?
Good dog trainers - and by that you can read "employed" dog trainers - enter their careers in dog training because of their love of dogs. They work for the intrinsic pleasure of helping man's best friend, not for the money, power, or glory often associated with dog training. Initially, the novice dog trainer may even begin his career by working for a more experienced trainer as his assistant, trainee, or lackey. The pay grade for such positions is, of course, Lhasa Apso-sized - assuming you can find an experience dog trainer who will take you under his paw. If not, when was the last time you read a classified ad seeking a dog trainer?
The way many dog trainers collar a career in dog training is to become self-employed. Hang a shingle on the front door. This has been suggested by the American Dog Trainers Network, which states that you can have a part time career where, nationally, trainers earn an average of $20/hour. Not a bad living. But Uncle Sam is always snapping at the heels of the ambitious with his own statistical snarls and growls. The Occupational Outlook Handbook, put out by the U.S. Department of Labor, states that the median hourly earnings of non-farm animal caretakers were $8.21 in 2002 (the most recent year they have numbers for).
So what should I do? I love them pups!
The bottom line is that a career in dog training is something you do because you have a desire, passion, or drive to work with dogs, not because it's a quick, easy, lucrative career option. As with most any career choice, there is effort involved. Shed your fears (regular brushing helps), put on your shiny coat, and get out there and claw your way to your career in dog training. Or you can just sit...stay...roll over. Good dog.
About the Author:
Albert Medinas has developed and maintains the website Dog Training Resources, which answers the most common questions people have about Dog Training. Please visit us at http://www.dogtrainingresources.net today.
Article Source: Free Articles SA

Do you know where your dog is?

2007-12-28T18:58:00.000-08:00

If your dog is outside on a chain, you may be brewing trouble.
Millions of dogs across the country spend their entire lives confined to small kennels or at the end of chains. This “solitary confinement” with little exercise or interaction with humans or others of their own kind can drive dogs insane. Dogs on chains become overly fearful of intruders and protective of their tiny patch of ground. Chained dogs are also exposed to taunts, teasing, and worse from anyone who passes by, further putting their defenses on red alert. Leaving dogs outside unattended increases the chances that children or others may wander into your yard and expose themselves to the risk of injury.
Dogs who spend a great deal of time alone in the back yard or tied out on a chain often become dangerous, while dogs who are well socialized and supervised rarely bite. It’s safest for everyone—both dogs and kids—when dogs are treated as treasured family members. Don’t turn your dog into a killer. If your dog is an “outside dog,” bring him or her inside now, for everyone’s sake.

Cool Ideas for Hot Dogs

2007-12-28T18:48:00.000-08:00

A Naples, Florida, man was convicted of cruelty when his dog died after being locked in a car for four hours on a warm day. The dead dog’s temperature was still almost 110ºF a full two hours after police removed him from the car. The man was sentenced to six months in jail and slapped with a $1,000 fine for “animal cruelty by abandonment.”

“I always try to have sympathy for defendants before making a decision,” the sentencing judge told the man. “I don’t have any sympathy for you.”

Why was the judge so unsympathetic? Because he believed that the man, a doctor, should have known better than to leave a dog in a car for hours with one window cracked open just an inch. Indeed, all of us should know better, especially when temperatures climb into the 80s and 90s. But even a mild day can be dangerous. Recently, a dog died after being locked in a parked car on a sunny, 67°F day in Albany, New York, even though the car windows had allegedly been left open a crack.

During the “dog days” of summer, the temperature inside a parked car can climb to well above 100ºF in just a matter of minutes. Beating the heat is extra tough for dogs because they can only cool themselves by panting and sweating through their paw pads.

Heatstroke can come on quickly and result in brain damage or death. Watch for symptoms such as restlessness, excessive thirst, heavy panting, lethargy, lack of appetite, dark tongue, rapid heartbeat, fever, vomiting, or lack of coordination. If your dog shows any of these symptoms, get her or him into the shade immediately and call your veterinarian. Lower the animal’s body temperature gradually by providing water to drink, applying a cold towel or ice pack to the head, neck, and chest, or immersing the dog in lukewarm (not cold) water.

“Every summer, we hear about tragedies that could have been prevented,” says PETA casework division manager Martin Mersereau. “Many people don’t realize how quickly animals left in a hot car or outside without shade or water can succumb to the heat.”

Prevent Heatstroke by Taking
These Precautions:

Never leave a dog in a parked car. On a mild 73ºF day, the temperature inside a car can reach 120ºF in 30 minutes. On a 90ºF day, the interior of a vehicle can reach 160ºF in minutes.
If you see a dog in a car and in distress, take down the car’s color, model, make, and license-plate number, have the owner paged inside nearby stores, and call local humane authorities or police. Have someone keep an eye on the dog. If police are unresponsive or too slow and the dog’s life appears to be in imminent danger, find a witness (or several) who will back your assessment, take steps to remove the suffering animal, and then wait for authorities to arrive. Contact PETA for a supply of fliers on the dangers of heatstroke to leave on windshields.

Don’t carry your dog in the bed of a pickup truck. This is always dangerous, but the heat brings the added danger of burning the dog’s feet on the hot metal.

Don’t take your dog jogging—except on cool mornings or evenings—and don’t force exercise. On long walks, rest often and take plenty of water. Hot pavement can burn dogs’ paws; choose shady, grassy routes.

Trim heavy-coated dogs’ fur, but leave an inch for protection against insects and sunburn. Keep an eye on areas where hair is thin, like eyelids, ears, and nose as they can get sunburned.

Keep your dog indoors. If he or she must stay outside for long, avoid the hottest part of the day. Provide shade, water, and a kiddie pool. Keep drinking water in an anchored bucket or a heavy bowl that won’t tip over.

Be a watchdog for chained dogs. Make sure that they have food, water, and shelter. If you see a dog in distress, contact humane authorities. Give the dog immediate relief by providing water.

HOW CAN YOU HELP STOP ANIMAL ABUSE?

2007-12-27T21:54:00.001-08:00

HOW CAN YOU HELP STOP ANIMAL ABUSE?
What is Animal Cruelty?

Animal Cruelty is when someone hurts an animal or does not care for an animal responsibly, like giving him food and water. It is against the law to be cruel to or harm animals, even your own pets.

What Should You Do About It?

Since an animal that is being hurt can not get help on her own, she needs you to speak up for her. Depending on the situation, there are different ways to respond to animal cruelty:

If you see someone hurting an animal

#1 – Don’t Touch. The first thing to remember, is do not try to make the people stop hurting the animal. Even though it can be very upsetting to see someone being cruel, those people may try to hurt you if you get involved.
#2 – Get an Adult You Trust. This could be your mom, dad, grandparent, teacher or neighbor. Tell the adult what you saw and together, call for help.
#3 – Call 911. Have your trusted adult explain the emergency to the operator. The operator will tell the police or Animal Control officers to go immediately to the scene to help the animal.
If you know an animal who is not being cared for responsibly

# 1 – Don’t Touch. Even if you know the animal needs help, don’t try to help him on your own. If he is hurt or has been abused he may not realize you are trying to help.
#2 – Get an Adult You Trust. This could be your mom, dad, grandparent, teacher or neighbor. Tell the adult what you saw and together, get help.
#3 – Call Animal Control. The animal control officers or animal cops can help the animal or advise you on how to help the animal.

"Dangerous Dog" Ordinance is Unconstitutional

2007-12-04T06:00:00.000-08:00

Judge: Dog ordinance unconstitutional By Bill Morlin
Staff writer
December 1, 2007
Video reports Watch video: Owners reunited with their
dogs
Spokane's "dangerous dog" ordinance is unconstitutional because it denies
pet owners the right of due process, a Superior Court judge ruled Friday in
a case that may have far-reaching effects.
As a matter of law, the administrative procedures used in the city of
Spokane regarding "dangerous dog" determinations and appeals from those
rulings violate citizens' due process rights, Judge Robert Austin said in
his ruling.
It came in the case of Patty Schoendorf, a 57-year-old resident of the
city's West Central neighborhood. Her dog, a 1½-year-old boxer and golden
Lab mix named Kenny, and her daughter's 4-year-old border collie and black
Lab mix, Tai, were impounded in mid-August by SpokAnimal officers working
under a city animal control contract.
The ruling suggests the City Council now must correct the legal issues
with its "dangerous dog" ordinance and provide more constitutional
protections to citizens whose animals are picked up and destroyed, sometimes
in a matter of days.
In the current system, dogs tagged as "dangerous" by the city and its
contractor, SpokAnimal, are deemed to be that unless the owner can prove
otherwise – flying in the face of the notion of presumed innocence.
City Attorney Jim Craven said he would have a comment after reading the
judge's four-page ruling. It's the latest legal setback for the City
Attorney's Office and the City Council, which recently granted a 26-month
contract extension to SpokAnimal.
Shortly after the judge released his 4-page ruling, Schoendorf, her
daughter, Emily Kaeding, and their attorneys, Cheryl Mitchell and Richard
Lee, raced to SpokAnimal's facility at 710 N. Napa late Friday afternoon for
a tail-wagging reunion with Kenny and Tai.
They are home this weekend after spending more than three months in
solitary confinement while Schoendorf paid $14 a day and hired a team of
attorneys to keep them from being euthanized. She was only allowed two
visits – sticking her fingers through the chain mesh – after the court
intervened.
"I've been praying for this day for so long," Schoendorf said Friday
afternoon, nervously fondling her dog's leash. SpokAnimal officials had her
spend several minutes signing legal papers before the dogs could be
released.
"I think I'm going to give him a steak bone, even though I can't afford
one after all this," Schoendorf said when asked what she would do with her
dog this evening. Tai, who spends days at Schoendorf's home, went to another
home with Kaeding.
They were being held in the public-restricted "dangerous dog" area – sort
of a doggy death row – where dogs labeled dangerous are euthanized within 14
days unless their owners pay $98 in advance, demand a hearing and get a
Superior Court restraining order preventing them from being destroyed.
"Most poor people can't afford to fight the city like this, so they just
lose their dogs," Schoendorf said.
SpokAnimal officers alleged her dogs killed a neighborhood cat in late
July, but Schoendorf says the contract dog catchers grabbed the wrong black
and tan dogs. She said 13 other sets of black and brown dogs live within a
two block radius of her West Central home, but she wasn't given an
opportunity to make that case before a city hearing examiner.
The judge said the city violated Schoendorf's constitutional rights by
taking her property – her dogs – and intending to destroy them after a
hearing where she wasn't allowed to cross-examine or impeach witnesses
involved in the dogs' impoundment.
She also wasn't given access to documents in the city's "dangerous dog"
file and the opportunity to rebut those allegations – another denial of due
process guaranteed by the Constitution.
The judge not only ordered SpokAnimal to immediately release the dogs, he
ordered the city to pay as-yet undetermined legal bills for a team of
attorneys.
"The attorney fees are going to be pretty healthy in this," said attorney
Robert Caruso, who worked with Lee of his firm and Mitchell, who specializes
in animal rights legal issues.
Mitchell said she has "been fighting" with the city and its contract that
allows SpokAnimal to pick up dogs and label them dangerous on the spot, even
if they have returned home, as Kenny and Tai had done after someone opened
the gate at Schoendorf's home.
Her adult son was there Aug. 16 when SpokAnimal control officers said they
had come to pick up two black and brown dogs, tentatively described by an
80-year-old man who witnessed a cat mauled by two dogs in late July. The cat
later died.
"They told my son, 'If you don't give us those dogs, we're going to arrest
you and put you in jail,'" so he went in the house and handed over the two
dogs," Schoendorf said. Her third dog, a golden retriever named Hannah,
escaped attention and remained in the home.
After getting off work that day, Schoendorf went to SpokAnimal and was
told she would have to pay $98 in advance – $7 a day for each dog – to keep
them from being euthanized while she filed an appeal with City Hearing
Examiner Greg Smith.
At the informal hearing, witnesses were not given an oath, Schoendorf
said, and she wasn't given a chance to challenge their version of events,
accusing her dogs of killing the cat. There also were documents given to the
hearing examiner by SpokAnimal that she wasn't allowed to see, she said.
The hearing examiner ruled her pets were "dangerous dogs" and said they
could be returned to Schoendorf and her daughter only if they posted a
$100,000 bond per animal, had them wear muzzles any time they were outside,
and built a special concrete-floor outdoor kennel posted with "dangerous
dogs" signs.
After lining up Mitchell and Caruso's law firm, where she works as a
paralegal, Schoendorf instructed the lawyers to get a restraining order to
prevent SpokAnimal from euthanizing her dogs while she appealed the hearing
examiner's dangerous dog ruling to Superior Court.
Mitchell drafted the legal papers, asking the judge to declare the city's
dangerous dog ordinance – part of the Spokane Municipal Code –
unconstitutional.
"I'm absolutely delighted," Mitchell said of the ruling. "Finally, a judge
has told them – the city and SpokAnimal – they have to have rules and follow
the Constitution."
The judge said dogs clearly are property, so a government agency must
comply with due process provisions of the Constitution when seizing animals.
The judge said the city and SpokAnimal failed to identify a "standard of
proof" – the legal criteria – in labeling dangerous dogs.
"Similarly, in this case, the appellant (Schoendorf) was at no time during
the hearing allowed to cross-examine the witnesses testifying against them,"
Austin said. "In addition, the appellant was not given, prior to the
hearing, certain documents used in the hearing."
Furthermore, the judge said, instead of a presumption of innocence that
accompanies most legal proceedings, the burden of proof shifted to
Schoendorf to prove her dogs weren't the dangerous dogs responsible for the
cat's death.

Changing the Owner-Pet Relationship

2007-11-23T14:37:00.001-08:00

Changing the Owner-Pet Relationship

Debra Horwitz, DVM, Diplomate ACVB
Veterinary Behavior Consultations
St. Louis, Missouri
When an owner is having problems with their pet, there are both owner driven factors and pet driven factors that are contributory. Some animals with problem behaviors are normal but have learned that certain behaviors are tolerated and beneficial for them. Other animals may be abnormal and respond to owner interaction in a different manner than expected1. In some situations the owner is interacting with the pet in an inappropriate manner that although unintended may prolong, worsen, or facilitate the problem behavior. The pet on the other hand, is often unaware of what the owner considers proper behavior and therefore is choosing behaviors that it feels are the most appropriate responses. What commonly occurs is miscommunication between the owner and their pet. The owner is using a human form of communication, reasoning and language, something most pets do not understand in the same manner as intended by their owners. The pet however, is communicating in the manner most appropriate for its species, and therefore often misunderstood by the human. The first step in behavior therapy is changing the pet-owner relationship and creating clear rules and expectations. This must be done in a manner that is understood by the pet. The goal of changing how owners and their pets communicate is to create an environment where it is easier for the owner to control the pet and thus elicit good behavior. This step is most useful in treating behavior problems in companion dogs.

The Theory

The theory involved in changing the pet owner relationship is that cross species communication often results in misunderstandings and thus problem behaviors. Therefore, clearer communication is needed. Owners frequently misunderstand a dog's expectations in social communication and group living. Communication is a behavior that has a goal and a function. Communication is an action that takes place between a sender and a receiver. 2 For communication to be functional, the receiver must understand the message. The information that is transferred between sender and receiver can have 4 possible outcomes: 1.) benefit the sender and receiver, 2.) benefit the sender and manipulate the receiver, 3.) disadvantage the sender and benefit the receiver (eavesdropping), 4.) disadvantage the sender and the receiver (spite).2 Although owners often feel that the fourth option spite is taking place, most likely what is occurring is a miscommunication between species. Without clear communication problems can arise. The goal is to give the pet clear signals of what is expected so that behavior can begin to change and conform to owner's expectations. By bundling a series of learning and control tasks together, the owner can create an environment for clearer communication.

When owners seek help with their problem dog, the problem may be labeled a "dominance" or leadership problem, which can be a simplification of the issue. Practitioners of applied animal behavior interpret dominance hierarchies, ranking and how they interact in the human-dog relationship many different ways and may use varying criteria to define dominance 3, 4, 5. The concept of dominant and subordinate relationships between animals was developed from observation of animals (wolves, baboons, chickens) living in social groups. 6 Social hierarchies arranged around dominant and subordinate relationships decrease the conflict associated with the allocation of critical resources, i.e. food, shelter, mates and territory7. When living in social groups, canids will establish dominance hierarchies that may dictate access to certain resources such as food, resting places, favored possessions, territory and mates but may or may not involve aggression 8. These social relationships can be extended to the human members of the household9. However, a case could be made that dominance behavior may occur without aggression and instead be about control of the outcome. In domestic canid groupings, overt aggression is rare and deference common8. Owners often inadvertently reinforce a dominant outcome for the dog by deferring to the dog's demands. This sets the dog up as the one in charge, and each interaction that ends with deference to the dog reinforces that assumption. So perhaps the issue is not always one of "dominance" as much as one of control. The animal has learned that certain behaviors result in certain outcomes, which are favorable to the dog. In addition, often a behavior occurs because it can, in other words, the owners do not prevent the dog from engaging in a certain behavior and that in and of itself can be reinforcing. Some dogs that control their environment may do so because it is important to them to be in control. Others may control because they can but yet are anxious about the outcome. Changing the pet-owner relationship focuses on "control" of the dog, which often prohibits the dog from engaging in behaviors that "control" the environment and thus the owner. This alone can have an effect on the expression of problem behaviors.

The Program

None of the elements in this program are new. They have been used before and discussed many places in the applied animal behavior literature. The goal of this program is to place them together and counsel the owner on how and why changing the pet-owner relationship is beneficial to them and their pet. Initially, the owner is educated about canid social structure. Second, the owner is told how dogs communicate and what dominance and subordinance mean to dogs. Third, how animals learn is briefly explained to the owner. Finally, owners are told of how increasing their control over their dog is a positive action that can make their dog more relaxed and compliant in the long term.

The first step is a program that requires the dog to comply with an owner command to obtain anything the dog wants. This has been called numerous things since its inception. ("Nothing in life is free" by Dr. Victoria Voith10 and "No such thing as a free lunch" and "Learn to earn" by William E. Campbell11) In essence, the dog is required to follow an owner command, such as "sit" to obtain anything that the dog wants. This could be access to the outdoors to eliminate, food, petting, a ball the list is endless. The goal is for the dog to "earn" everything they desire by deferring to the owner. Deference is accomplished when the dog follows the command to sit or down. If the dog performs the command prior to being asked, it must do something else. This is critical. Unless the owner gives a command and then the dog complies, the dog is still controlling the situation and deference has not occurred. The goal is for the owner to have control. Although many owners have been told that they should control their dog, usually they are counseled to use physical control methods. While an owner can have control by trying to physically control a dog this can be difficult and potentially dangerous. Instead, in this program the owner uses their ability to physically control the environment and the resources to control the dog. By using benign control of resources and deference for access, the owners place themselves in a "dominant" position. It is not necessary for the owner to physically control the dog, merely to control access to things the dog wants. If the dog will not obey the command, the resource is withheld. In essence the dog is offered a choice-do you want the resource enough to comply or not. For some dogs the answer is yes, for others the answer may be no. Once the dog has learned to comply, if they defer by waiting quietly, the resource may be given.

The second step is control of attention. Many dogs with problem behaviors engage in numerous attention seeking behaviors. These include nudging the owner, pushing, leaning, barking, whining, pacing, scratching the owner, bringing toys and climbing on the owners lap to get attention. The attention can even be "negative" attention such as pushing the dog away or yelling at it; the desired response is an interaction. Some dogs use attention seeking behavior to control the owner, while other may have underlying anxieties which stimulate them to constantly seek information about their environment and social status12. In either case, the owners are told that they must ignore all attention seeking behaviors. If the dog approaches them for attention, they must ignore the dog. If the dog persists, then they must leave the room. Again, their response is to be benign. They are not to allow the dog to engage them in any interaction. However, this is not a prescription for ignoring the dog. They can give the dog attention, but with certain rules.

• They are only to give attention to the dog on their initiative.
• The attention should be given when the dog is calm and quiet.
• The goal is to reward calm, quiet, good behavior with positive owner-pet interaction.
They can call the dog over, request that the dog sit or lie down and then pet the dog. However, it is also critical that they end the interaction and send the dog away. If the problem is aggression, the type and amount of interaction are structured and detailed for the owner. This program of controlling attention has been used in other treatment plans for various behavior problems. 13, 14, 15 These rules also extend to how they are to play with their pet. The owner is instructed to only play with the pet when they initiate the playtime and end the game when they are done. The owner is encouraged to play games such as fetch, or engage in a walk with the dog if they can control the pace of the walk.

Finally, the dog is taught to sit/stay or down/stay on a verbal command. Eventually the dog should be able to sit while the owner leaves the room, returns and releases the dog. Once the dog can do this well, the owner is to introduce a verbal phrase to signal relaxation such as "chill", "relax" or "easy". Again the goal is to teach the dog to take contextual cues from the owner. When given the "chill" command, the dog is to be watching the owner with a calm, relaxed facial expression and body posture. If the owner tells the dog to "chill" the dog learns that this means to focus on my owner and wait for the next command. To facilitate learning this task, food rewards are used. This task is useful as a basis for counterconditioning, which is often used in behavior modification programs for other problem behaviors.7, 16, 17, 18 This program has also been called "Protocol for relaxation: behavior modification tier 1" by Karen Overall. 19

The techniques described have been combined various ways in treatment protocols for separation anxiety, dominance aggression, fear aggression and compulsive behaviors7, 12,13,14.

Potential problems and pitfalls

This plan is not without its problems. Many owners have difficulty ignoring the attention seeking behaviors. What they like about their pet is the persistence and the perceived "need" the pet has for them. These owners are unaware of how their actions are reinforcing behaviors that they do not like or may be contributing to the problem behavior. It is imperative that the concept of control be explained to the owner and how their behavior can change the problem behavior exhibited by their pet. In addition, it is important that the owner not feel as though they are neglecting their pet. Therefore, they must be given guidelines for appropriate interactions. This can include a list of appropriate games, walks, and number of times that they can call the dog and pet it. Each case will be different and have different needs to encourage compliance. If aggression is the major problem then the owners must also be given instructions for safety around their pet and avoidance of further injury.

Another problem area can occur 10-14 days into the program. Many animals will initially respond well to the new rules for interaction. However, once they realize that the rules have changed, some dogs will increase their efforts to get the owner to interact in the old manner. This usually results in the dog engaging in attention seeking behaviors at even a higher level than previously exhibited. This is an extinction burst. If owners are warned about this phenomenon, they are prepared and ready to continue the program and wait out the pet. Many dogs will then return to compliant behavior if the owner persists with the plan.

Results

This is not meant to be a stand alone treatment plan for any and all behavior problems. Neither does it replace the need for complete behavioral histories and diagnosis of behavior problems. Nearly all dog owners are given this plan as an adjunct to a more complete behavior modification program designed to treat their specific problem(s). In each case this plan can act as a framework for beginning to change problem behaviors. Each environment and problem will be different and require modifications to this plan as well as a more in-depth behavioral treatment plan. However, what often is surprising is that many dogs improve greatly as judged by owner reports with only these three steps. What this plan seems to accomplish is to allow owners to change the way they interact with their pet with easy to follow and understand steps. Once owners see that they have the ability to control their pet, and in many cases still have a satisfying relationship, they are often empowered to continue to shape behaviors in more positive directions.

Conclusion

Changing the pet-owner interaction is the first step in behavior therapy. It allows owners to be in control of their pet and its behavior in a benign way. When done correctly it empowers the owner to change their pet's behavior. This will often encourage them to go further and work on specific problems. When explained correctly owners gain a better understanding of canine communication and learning and can use this information in all their interactions with their pet.

References

1. Odendaal, JSJ. A diagnostic classification of problem behavior in dogs and cats. In: Veterinary Clinics of North American: Small Animal Practice. Vol. 27:3. 1997. Pp. 427-443.
2. Simpson, BS, Canine Communication, In: Veterinary Clinics of North America: Small Animal Practice, Vol. 27:3, 1997. Pp.445-464.
3. Hallgren, A. Mother and Pups. Animal Behavior Consultant Newsletter, July 1990 Vol. 7:3
4. Trattner, A. Letter to the Editor. Animal Behavior Consultant Newsletter, Oct. 1990. Vol.7:4
5. Schilder, MBH, Netto, WJ. Letter to the Editor. Animal Behavior Consultant Newsletter. July 1991. Vol.8: 3.
6. Alcock, J, Animal Behavior: An evolutionary approach. Edition 2. Sunderland, Mass, Sinauer Associates Inc. 1979.
7. Voith, VL, Borchelt, PL, Diagnosis and treatment of Dominance Aggression in dogs, In: Veterinary Clinics of North America: Small Animal Practice, Vol. 12:4, 1982, pp. 655-663.
8. Bradshaw, JWS, Nott, HMR. Social and Communication behaviour of companion dogs. In: The Domestic Dog, J. Serpell Ed. Cambridge University Press. Cambridge, 1995, pp. 116-130.
9. Line, S, Voith, VL. Dominance Aggression of dogs towards people: Behavior Profile and Response to treatment. Applied Animal Behavior Science. 16(1986) 77-83
10. Voith, VL, Treatment of Dominance aggression of dogs toward people, Modern Veterinary Practice, 63:2, 1982, 149-152.
11. Campbell, WE, Social attraction the ultimate tool for canine control. Modern Veterinary Practice, 1973
12. Overall, KL. Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Small Animals, Mosby, St. Louis, 1997. Pp. 118.
13. Reisner, IR, Management of Canine Aggression, Veterinary International, Nestec Ltd. Blackwell Scientific Special Projects, Oxford, 1994, pp.28-35.
14. Horwitz, DF. Diagnosis and Treatment of separation-related disorders. Veterinary International. Nestec Ltd. Blackwell Scientific Special Projects, Oxford, 1998, pp. 26-34.
15. Landsberg, G, Hunthausen, W, Ackerman, L Handbook of Behavior Problems in the Dog and Cat. Butterworth Heinemann, Oxford, 1997, pp.102.
16. Overall, KL Treating Canine Aggression. Canine Practice. 18:6, 1993. Pp.24-28.
17. Voith, VL, Borchelt, PL. Fears and Phobia in Companion Animals. In: Readings in Companion Animal Behavior, Voith & Borchelt Eds. Veterinary Learning Systems, Trenton, NJ. 1996, pp.140-152.
18. Luescher, AU. Compulsive behaviour in dogs. Veterinary International. Nestec Ltd. Blackwell Science Ltd. Oxford, 1998. Pp. 7-14.
19. Overall, KL B-2 Protocol for Relaxation: Behavior modification tier 1, Appendix B In: Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Small Animals, Mosby, St. Louis, 1997. Pp. 413

Dog bite Law

2007-11-22T16:32:00.000-08:00

Dog Bite Law

If Your Dog Bites Someone
Things you can do to minimize the losses.

What to do at the scene of the attack
In the weeks after the attack
Report the incident to your insurance company
Tell the truth about the dog and what happened
Blunt advice about your future
What to do at the scene of the attack

If your dog bites someone, and the victim was not committing a crime at the time of the attack, there are a few things that you should do:
Stay calm. Don't argue. Don't accuse. Be nice to the victim because he or she will have to make a decision about pursuing you for damages; if you are nice, the victim may decide to go easy on both you and your dog.
Make sure the victim gets medical attention. Take him or her to the hospital or to a doctor. Be considerate.
Whether or not you have insurance, if you have any money or credit at all, you should offer to pay for the victim's medical bills. Be a hero.
Take steps to protect others from your dog.
Obtain the name, address and phone number of every witness.
Avoid making statements because there are possible criminal consequences when a dog bites or injures someone. See Dangerous and Vicious Dogs.

In the weeks after the attack

In the days and weeks after the attack, keep in touch with the victim if possible, and continue showing a genuine interest in his or her condition. Victims often love dogs and may decide to forget the entire thing if you are kind and they are not badly hurt.
What you say can hurt you later. You might have to face charges of some kind. There are three possible places where you and your dog might land:

Civil court. In most states, dog owners are strictly responsible for injuries from bites. (See Legal Rights of Dog Bite Victims in the USA .)
Criminal court. Usually you will not face criminal charges. However, if the present attack was serious or if the dog previously bit someone, you could be accused of a variety of crimes. (See Dangerous and vicious dogs and also Criminal penalties for dog bites.)
"Dog court." The animal control authorities might take action against you, your dog or both, under state, county and/or municipal laws. (See Dangerous and vicious dogs.)
Some states protect you if you express sympathy and compassion for the victim; those statements will not be used against you.
If you pay the victim's medical bills or insurance deductible and/or co-payment, you probably will favorably impress the victim and therefore will reduce the chances of a claim or lawsuit against you. However, do not expect your insurance company (if any) to reimburse you. Most policies state that the insurer will not be responsible for any "voluntary" payments that you make.

The local animal control authorities may require that your dog be quarantined. Sometimes the quarantine can be at your own home. Ask whether home quarantine might be agreeable in view of the circumstances that apply to your incident.

If the authorities cite you into "dog court," you need to prepare a defense. See Protect You and Your Dog.

Locate and preserve your dog's medical records, including proof that it has received rabies shots. Make a copy of the rabies certificate and give it to the victim, to put his or her mind at ease.

You generally are not required to submit your dog for tests unless the authorities or your insurance company request that you do so. If you suspect that your dog has rabies or some other disease, however, you voluntarily should take steps to warn the victim, and you should talk to your insurance company or an attorney.

Whether you need to seek legal advice depends on the circumstances and whether you were insured. If you have not ruled out criminal consequences in your city and state, contact an attorney who is familiar with dog bite criminal laws. (See Dangerous and Vicious Dogs.) If you are insured, see Report to your insurance company, below. If you do not know whether you are insured, read Insurance for the Dog Owner. If you definitely are not insured, talk to an attorney if:

The victim asks for money
You are paying a significant amount of money to the victim
You receive a claim or suspect that the victim will make a claim in the future
The bite was significant (for example, it drew blood)
You suspect that your dog has rabies or another significant illness or disease
You have a bad feeling about the situation or the intentions of the victim
You hear from the police
You suspect there may be criminal consequences in your city and state.

Report to your insurance company

If you are a homeowner or renter, or if there is any possibility that you have other insurance that may possibly provide coverage for the dog attack, get in touch with your insurance agent and make a proper report if:
The victim asks for money
You are paying a significant amount of money to the victim
You receive a claim or suspect that the victim will make a claim in the future
The bite was significant (for example, it drew blood)
You suspect that your dog has rabies or another significant illness or disease
You have a bad feeling about the situation or the intentions of the victim
You hear from the police
You may have medical payments coverage which you can offer to the victim; this will make him or her feel better toward you and possibly your dog. Be sure to ask your agent whether you have medical payments coverage.
Every insurance policy has a "cooperation clause." It requires you (as the insured person) to make reports of incidents, and then cooperate fully with the insurance company. Obviously, give them the name, address and telephone number of every witness.

Tell the truth about the dog and what happened

Because of the possibility that a dog attack can lead to criminal prosecution, generally you should refrain from making any statements as to who owned the dog, what happened, where it happened, and anything else about the incident. However, there are circumstances where you are required to give information. If so, be sure that it is the truth.
When dog owners give statements, they often provide inaccurate information. The biggest problem defending a dog bite claim is not necessarily the dog attack or the severity of the bite, but the untruthful statements made by the dog owner. Owners frequently misstate how the attack happened and the dog's history of biting. This ultimately can hurt you and your dog. Consider this scenario:

The owner tells her insurance company that her dog has never bitten anyone
The insurance company refuses to make an adequate settlement offer, thinking that the victim must have provoked the dog
The victim retains an attorney who is knowledgeable about dog bite cases, and conducts a thorough investigation that reveals the dog's history of biting
Instead of making a claim for simple negligence or violation of the dog bite statute, the attorney requests additional damages to punish the dog owner for keeping a dangerous dog
Now the insurance company really doesn't want to settle! The claim becomes a lawsuit, and the lawsuit starts taking up the dog owner's time. Eventually the truth comes out.
Keep in mind that you should not make statements about the incident until you know that there can be no criminal consequences. Generally, you should contact an attorney familiar with the criminal aspects of dog bites.

Blunt advice about your future

If this is the first time that your dog bit a person, and if you have homeowner's or renter's insurance, you have very little to worry about because criminal prosecutions are very rare, and "dog court" usually cannot do much to hurt you (although it can hurt your dog).

Nevertheless, your dog is dangerous from both a practical and legal standpoint. Yes, you may have an explanation for his behavior, but the fact is that he attacked a human. For whatever reason, at the present time your dog is dangerous.

The real problem in most cases is that, because he has bitten one person, your legal position has changed. You face immediate and long-term consequences. In the near future, you may find yourself in three courts, namely civil court, criminal court and "dog court." For now, you have the excuse that you didn't know that your dog would bite anyone because he never did it before. In the long range, however, you may find yourself without insurance and defending yourself in four courts instead of just three -- all of the above, plus bankruptcy court, because the owner of a dangerous dog may not be permitted to get a discharge of debt toward a victim of the dog. Furthermore, you will not be able to assert that you had no way of knowing that your dog would bite.

Keep in mind the fate of Marjorie Knoller of San Francisco, one of the defendants in the Diane Whipple murder trial. She spent a year in jail and two years in prison because her dog, which had never broken the skin of any human being, took it upon itself to kill a person. Although it is highly unlikely that your dog would ever do that, it must be noted that people who own dogs that bite other people no longer get the benefit of the doubt. The insurance industry, the government and the public are fed up with the dog bite epidemic, which has seen the number of serious dog bites go up by 33% while the number of dogs has risen only 2% (see Dog Bite Statistics). The insurance industry is limiting insurance, the government is tightening the laws and the public has become intolerant, as evidenced by the jury's guilty verdict in the Knoller case.

You need to see the dog as a dog, not as a beloved family member, and to protect your family and neighbors from it in the future.

Consider taking your dog to an applied animal behaviorist certified by the ABS. The Animal Behavior Society (ABS) is a group of professionals (veterinarians and PhD's) who are concerned with the study and clinical practice of animal behavior. It has a credentialing program for an "Accredited Applied Animal Behaviorist." See the Directory of Certified Applied Animal Behaviorists.

You also could take your dog to a veterinarian, provided that he or she is certified by the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists (ACVB). See the Directory of Diplomats of the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists.

Cults in Dog Training?

2007-11-21T06:45:00.000-08:00

Cults in Dog Training??? - by Roger Hild
“In a way, I find dog people and their strong ideas on dog training methods to be almost like religion.”

This comment, made by a member of a dog-training email group I belong to, reflects similar thoughts that have, at times, occurred to me. As debates rage on about methodology and theory, as people passionately state their beliefs and try to convince others, the religion analogy seems to fit. The passion most of us have for our dogs is what drives many of us - always looking for what’s best. This speaks to the need for CAUTION as there are those who, being aware of the depth of feelings involved, would seek to exploit and manipulate the passions of others.

Knowing how there are people searching for good dog trainers and due to recent events that resulted in very painful experiences for some of these owners, I began to look past the religion analogy and began thinking in terms of “cult-like” experience. I don’t mean to say that these people joined a cult or even that those holding out the “holy-grail” of dog training are themselves a cult. What I want to do is expose the tactics and psychology that are used which are similar to those used by cults. I also hope to help people become aware of what to watch out for when researching someone to help train their dog. These points would apply whenever we are entering into a teacher-student type of relationship.

The following points I got from: http://www.csj.org/ which is the web site for “AFF (American Family Foundation). Throughout the following quotes, the word “leader” can be used in place of the word “group.”

“The AFF is a nonprofit, tax-exempt research center and educational organization founded in 1979. AFF's mission is to study psychological manipulation and cultic groups, to educate the public and professionals, and to assist those who have been adversely affected by a cult-related experience. AFF consists of a professional staff and a growing network of more than 150 volunteer professionals in fields ranging from education, psychology, and religion to journalism, law enforcement, and business.”

“Cults & Mind Control

What is a Cult?

A cult is a group or movement exhibiting a great or excessive devotion or dedication to some person, idea, or thing, and employing unethically manipulative techniques of persuasion and control designed to advance the goals of the group’s leader, to the actual or possible detriment of members, their families, or the community.

These groups tend to dictate, sometimes in great detail, how members should think, act, and feel, claim a special exalted status for themselves and/or their leader(s), and intensify their opposition to and alienation from society at large.

Because the capacity to exploit human beings is universal, any group could become a cult. However, most mainstream, established groups have accountability mechanisms that restrain the development of cultic subgroups.”

What is Mind Control?

“Mind control (also known as "brainwashing," "coercive persuasion," and "thought reform") refers to a process in which a group or individual systematically uses unethically manipulative methods to persuade others to conform to the wishes of the manipulator(s). Such methods include the following:

1. extensive control of information in order to limit alternatives from which members may make "choices."

2. deception

3. group pressure

4. intense indoctrination into a belief system that denigrates independent critical thinking and considers the world outside the group to be threatening, evil, or gravely in error. An insistence that members’ distress (much of which may consist of anxiety and guilt subtly induced by the group) can be relieved only by conforming to the group.

5. physical and/or psychological debilitation . . . . in which attention is narrowed, suggestibility heightened, and independent critical thinking weakened.

6. alternation of harshness/threats and leniency/love in order to effect compliance with the leadership’s wishes isolation from social supports pressured public confessions

. . . contemporary cultic groups induce dependent states to gain control over recruits and employ psychological (sometimes physical) punishment ("dread") to maintain control. The process, in my view, can be briefly described by a modified "DDD syndrome": deception, dependency, and dread. “

“Although the process here described is complex and varied, the following appears to occur in the prototypical cult conversion:

- A vulnerable prospect encounters a cultic group.

- The group (leader[s]) deceptively presents itself as a benevolent authority that can improve the prospect's well-being.

- The prospect responds positively, experiencing an increase in self-esteem and security, at least some of which is in response to what could be considered "placebo" The prospect can now be considered a "recruit".

- Through the use of "sharing" exercises, "confessions," and skillful individualized probing, the group [leader(s)] assesses the recruit's strengths and weaknesses.

- Through testimonies of group members, the denigration of the group's "competitors" (e.g., other religious groups, other therapists), the tactful accentuation of the recruit's shameful memories and other weaknesses, and the gradual indoctrination of the recruit into a closed, “no falsifiable” belief system, the group's superiority is affirmed as a fundamental assumption.

- Members' testimonies, positive reinforcement of the recruit's expressions of trust in the group, discrete reminders about the recruit's weaknesses, and various forms of group pressure induce the recruit to acknowledge that his/her future well-being depends upon adherence to
the group's belief system, more specifically its "change program."

- These same influence techniques are joined by a subtle undermining of the recruit's self-esteem (e.g., by exaggerating the "sinfulness" of experiences the recruit is encouraged to confess"), the suppression or weakening of critical thinking . . . . These manipulations induce the recruit to declare allegiance to the group and to commit to change him/herself as directed by the group. He or she can now be considered a convert embarking on a path of "purification", "enlightenment", "self-actualization", "higher consciousness," or whatever. The recruit's dependency on the group is established and implicitly, if not explicitly, acknowledged. Moreover, he/she has accepted the group's authority in defining what is true and good, within the convert's heart and mind as well as in the world.

- The convert is next fully subjected to the unrealistically high expectations of the group. The recruit's "potential" is "lovingly" affirmed, while members testify to the great heights they and "heroic" models have scaled. The group's all-important mission, e.g., save the world, justifies its all-consuming expectations.

- Because by definition the group is always right and "negative" thinking is unacceptable, the convert's failures become totally his or her responsibility, while his or her doubts and criticisms are suppressed . . . or redefined as personal failures. The convert thus experiences increasing self-alienation. The "pre-cult self" is rejected; doubts about the group are pushed out of consciousness; the sense of failure generated by not measuring up to the group's expectations is bottled up inside. The only possible adaptation is fragmentation and compartmentalization. It is not surprising, then, that many clinicians consider dissociation to lie the heart of cult-related distress and dysfunction (Ash, 1985).

- The convert's self-alienation will tend to demand further psychological, if not physical, alienation from the non-group world (especially family), information from which can threaten to upset whatever dissociative equilibrium the convert establishes in an attempt to adjust to the consuming and conflicting demands of the group. This alienation accentuates the convert's dependency on the group.

- The group supports the convert's dissociative equilibrium by actively encouraging escalating dependency, e.g., by exaggerating the convert's past "sins" and conflicts with family, by denigrating outsiders, by positively reinforcing chanting or other "thought-stopping" activities, and by providing and positively reinforcing ways in which the convert can find a valued role within the group (e.g., work for a group-owned business, sell magazines on the street).

- The group strengthens the convert's growing dependency by threatening or inflicting punishment whenever the convert or an outside force (e.g., a visit by a family member) disturbs the dissociative equilibrium that enables him or her to function in a closed, nonfalsifiable system (the "dread" of DDD). Punishment may sometimes by physical. Usually, however, the punishment is psychological, sometimes even metaphysical. Certain fringe Christian groups, for example, can at the command of the leadership immediately begin shunning someone singled out as being "factious" or possessed of a "rebellious spirit." Many groups also threaten wavering converts with punishments in the hereafter, for example, being "doomed to Hell." It should be remembered that these threats and punishments occur within a context of induced dependency and psychological alienation from the person's former support network. This fact makes them much more potent than the garden-variety admonistions of traditional religious, such as "you will go to hell if you die with mortal sin."

“The result of this process, when carried to its consummation, is a person who proclaims great happiness but hides great suffering. I have talked to many former cultists who, when they left their groups and talked to other former members, were surprised to discover that many of their fellow members were also smilingly unhappy, all thinking they were the only ones who felt miserable inside.”

When I began looking at cult-like experiences, I was looking at it from the point of view of someone who gets unknowingly taken in. What is the psychology and group dynamics that work on the individual and could anyone be conned by a “good enough salesman?” I was very curious as to what types of “hooks” are used and also why would someone, over time, willingly hand over so much control to someone else. Why would someone give over his or her decision-making capacity and self-confidence?

I believe this also is a relevant dog training discussion. The obvious hook for someone who loves their dog, and who is having serious concerns about their dog, would be someone who comes along and holds out what they see as the only hope. They might sell themselves as a type of messiah meaning they and no one else can save this dog.

Initially the client invests hope in this new system or individual. Such systems or individuals (that make almost magical claims) would then somehow convince the client that all failure was the fault of the client and, through guilt, have the client redouble their efforts to achieve something that is always just beyond reach. One must be very careful when investing so much emotion and handing over so much power, that they are not being taken advantage of and are getting what they bargained for.

Crate Training Tips

2007-11-17T06:01:00.000-08:00

Crate Training and "Potty" Training
Remember that repetition is necessary. Your puppy will not understand what you want unless you repeatedly show him/her the desired behavior MANY times.

Keep in mind also that your puppy does not know what is expected and must be shown the proper place to eliminate, and when.

Your best potty training friend is your crate. When you cannot watch your puppy, use a crate. Think of the crate the same way you think of a playpen for a human child. Even if you are only leaving the room for a "minute," either take the puppy with you or use the crate. After all, you would not leave a toddler in the house alone "for just a minute" would you?

Crate training can be fun for the puppy if you make it a POSITIVE experience. The DEN is an integral part of the wild dogs upbringing and safety zone. The same thing applies to the "crate". Giving the pup special "treats" is a great way to introduce him to his crate. The only time the puppy receives these special treats is when he is in the crate; the treats become associated with the crate.

Use the crate wisely. Don't crate only when you are leaving the house. Place the puppy in the crate while you are home as well. Use it as a "safe" zone, or for "time outs". (thus keeping your sanity)

By crating when you are home AND while you are gone, the puppy becomes comfortable in the crate and not worried that you will not return, or that you are leaving him/her alone. This helps to eliminate separation anxiety later in life.

Most puppies will not soil their "den." The first couple of tries you might have some accidents, but don't be discouraged. An easy way to avoid accidents in the night for the first few weeks is by following this routine:

1. Set your alarm for about 3 hrs after your normal bed time. When the alarm goes off, get up immediately, go to the crate and CARRY the pup outside (I do this in my robe, with my shoes kept by the door to the outside). Place him on the ground and encourage him to eliminate. PRAISE when he does, and bring him back to the crate. Go back to bed.

2. Set your alarm for another 3 hrs, and get back to sleep. When the alarm goes off repeat part 1.

3. After about a week of the above routine, IF it has been successful (no crate messing) then you can set the alarm for * way through your sleep time. Follow the remainder of part 1. When you arise in the morning, TAKE the pup outside BEFORE you do anything else. Feed the pup and then crate. Follow your regular waking routine, then walk the pup one more time before going off to work.

4. Repeat the feeding, walking and crating at lunch time. Pups from the ages of 2 to 4 months CANNOT control their elimination for much more than 4 hours, so if you cannot return home at lunch time, arrange for someone to do this for you at lunch.

If the CRATE is too large, the pup can easily soil on one side and sleep on the other. The way to prevent this is to buy a crate that will accommodate your pet when it is fully grown. Then get a box that will fit inside the back of the crate. The box should be large enough that there is only room for the puppy to stand and lie down comfortably.

As the puppy grows, provide more room by putting in a smaller box, or cutting down the size. When the puppy reliably asks to be put outside to eliminate, remove the box so the puppy can use the whole crate.

If the puppy messes the crate, replace the box size to the point at which the puppy was reliable, and just give the pup a little more time to learn. In conjunction with crate training, potty training starts immediately.

Whenever you remove the puppy from the crate or just want the puppy to "go potty," take the dog to the door that will always be used to "go outside." Use the SAME door throughout the training period.

On the handle of this door, tie a bell to a string, dropping it even with the height of the puppy's nose. When you bring the puppy to the door, lure the puppy to touch the bell with either it's nose or paw, (using a treat) causing the bell to ring.

After the puppy rings the bell, give it the treat, (use a SMALL piece of meat or dried liver) and say "OUTSIDE" in a happy tone of voice. Take the puppy outside on leash.

Reminder: During housebreaking DO NOT allow the pup outside to eliminate alone or loose in the yard. Yes, that means in the rain, snow, whatever: YOU GO OUTSIDE ALSO. Give the puppy plenty of time. Don't rush or you will be sorry. When the puppy urinates or defecates, praise the puppy with "Good Outside" and again, give the puppy a tiny, tiny treat.

Continue to wait. When the puppy poops, again praise the puppy with "Good Outside" and give a treat. Go back inside, stop at the door again, and treat once again. If the puppy does not "potty" even after staying outside 15 minutes, return back inside, place the puppy back into the crate, wait 15 minutes and start again from the beginning.

If done religiously, this training process should take only about 2 weeks for the puppy to understand. This method will work with any dog, regardless of age. If you adopt a dog from a shelter or a rescue program, follow the same routine. Remember, even though the dog is older or even an adult, he still does not know the rules of your home, and may not have ever BEEN in a house. Be PATIENT and this method WILL work.

Take it slow and easy...be PATIENT....and have FUN with your dog!

Reprinted from NetPets

French Ring Long Jump at Beyond The Leash

2007-07-23T21:24:00.000-07:00

My dog Dutch

2007-06-28T08:17:00.000-07:00

As many of you know, Adrian and I train for French Ring a few times per week. We decided to attend to trial in Utah last weekend. Unfortunately my dog "Dutch" was injured the day before the trial and could not compete. It took me a week to figure out exactly how my dog was injured. Now that I feel I know what happened I'd like to share it on this blog in hopes that maybe other dog owners will prevent it from happening when they see signs of it.
First of all, the night before we left I participated in one last training session with Adrian and other club members. My dog was doing a protection exercise when his right front paw pad started bleeding everywhere like he cut it on glass. We all assumed that the dog did step on a sharp object in the grass and cut the pad. Upon closer inspection I noticed that a good portion of two pads was entirely ripped off! This of course was very upsetting and puzzling at the same time. It was not a cut like you would find from a sharp object. I took him home and soak his foot in hydrogen peroxide and crated him.
For the next few days (including trial day) my dog had great difficulty with simple walking. I basically crated him for a week and gave a percautionary dose of antibiotics. Within five days he was much better and upon close inspection of the pads I noticed that the other feet had pieces of dead loose pad falling off. It was at this time that I realized what really had happened.
I don't think the injury happened during the training session. The injury occurred in my backyard when I let him out to pee and stretch for a couple of hours.
A couple of months ago I installed artificial grass in my backyard because my dog has a compulsive desire to pace in big figure eights in the backyard. This behavior destroyed my grass regardless of how much I would nurture it. I finally broke down and spent the money to get this really clean looking bullet-proof grass installed that also doesn't require watering. Well, the grass really is strong. dogs can't dig holes in it, it's easy to clean and it looks pretty good for plastic. The down side to this grass was noticed early on. It gets REALLY hot in the mid-day sun. I mean TOO hot for dogs to walk on! Your probably thinking "put up shade idiot!" of course I put up shade! I covered half of the yard with awesome sunshade material that people use over gardens and also put up a 12 X 12 easy up fo dogs to lounge under to sip Margaritas and take lazy naps.
The one thing that I forgot to factor in was that my dog is NUTS! There is about a hundred square feet of sun-filled plastic grass exposed through out the day. This exposed grass is part of my dogs figure eight race track area. So for a couple of hours my dog ran around the yard refusing to just settle in the shade and got what I percieve to be carpet burns on his paws. He actually had blood blisters that popped during the training session where I though the accident first occurred. My dogs feet are much better now just one week later.
I own a Belgian Malinios. He is a HIGH maintenance dog. I love him but he needs a lot of exercise and he must be crated for his own safety at times. I take him out every day for exercise in addition to his strenuous training for French Ring Sport. He is very hard, very driven, capable of great damage and very delicate at the same time. He is a high performance animal.
My message to you this summer is "BE AWARE OF YOUR DOGS FEET" The pavement is hot and they are barefoot out there. I have since purchased a "Pad Toughener" product on the "DOBBS" hunting dog website. There are also booties available for working dogs that go jogging with you, etc.. One company is "MuttLuks". If your just starting to jog with your dog break his pads in slow on the pavement. They will toughen naturally but if you rush it they won't want to go on that jog anymore because it will be associated with pain. That's it for now. Happy training and enjoy your four-legged friends!

California Bill for Mandatory Spay/Neuter passed.....

2007-06-08T17:47:00.000-07:00

For those who haven't heard, the California bill for mandatory spay/
neuter passed the house. Now it goes to the state senate. It would
be a terrible precedent for this bill to become law, guys. As
Virginia could just as easily be next. And for all of us who show we
have to keep our dogs intact. Besides, there are all kinds of health
risks to pets when spayed/neutered early.

If you feel strongly that the government should stay out of our
decisions about spaying/neutering our pets, and you're tired of
legislation about dogs being crammed down our throats against our
collective opposition, here are two ways to contact the state
senators in California. This battle may be in another state, but it
is our fight too, as dog fanciers.

here is the link to senators names in CA
http://www.sen.ca.gov/~newsen/senators/senators.htp

here are the e-mails....
http://www.sen.ca.gov/~newsen/senators/senemail.htp

it would help to print out the first link...then compare to the second
not all senators have an e-mail address

New Training Location!

2007-06-01T20:01:00.000-07:00

As some of you already know Beyond The Leash has moved to the Roger Barkley Community Center in beautiful downtown La Canada, California. The address and directions are on our website http://www.BeyondTheLeash.com.
I'm sure that we will all enjoy this new location. There is plenty of off street parking (this was a previous problem) and we have MUCH more room for dog training. There is limited access to two atheletic fields as well as an enclosed outdoor training area for puppy classes and one on one private dog training.
For those of you that are coming for the first time, when approaching the community center building from the parking lot we are in the left corner office. I will make some type of signage to help get you to the right room. It's not really that tough. PLEASE keep your dogs on a short leash when coming to train or for a free evaluation. There are childrens' programs at this location and nobody wants to scare or upset any children or adults for that matter with an unruly jumping crazy pup or worse. Simply air on the side of caution and assume that other people are afraid of your dog even though you know he's a big lovable Teddy Bear underneath all the aggression...ha...ha. I would also like to ask that you curb your dog in a respectful way. Bring poop bags with you, pick up after your dog and take him away from the building to go pee before you bring him in. Most dogs need to take a pee break after a ten minute car ride. Even if it's just to let everyone know he's been there.

BTL on YouTube

2007-05-30T20:13:00.001-07:00